But how could I forget? Alexandria was once the hub of civilization on the Mediterranean. Greek, Roman, and Egyptian scholars convened at the great Library of Alexandria (one of the 7 wonders of the world, now lost to antiquity) and still bears the marks of many great civilizations. The city is at once European and Egyptian, with architecture that reminds one of Cairo, Italy, and France. I met many residents who spoke several languages, and wandered down curving streets like every small European town.
The people I encountered were some of the kindest people I have met anywhere. A very kindly old man sold me some batteries for my camera. He had to walk a block to get the batteries and come back with them (the shop sold them, but his store only had them in the window and he got them from somewhere else - this is not entirely uncommon here). He hobbled back quickly and said to me that he was very glad to meet me. "Where are you from?" he asked "Near Washington, DC" I told him. "OH! I have a very good friend lives near there - in New York! You are visiting here?" Yes, I was, I was leaving tomorrow I said. "Oh," he said with some sadness and shook my hand, "then we shall never meet again. It was good to meet you!" I don't think I've ever encountered such a sweet man in all my life, sitting in his shop all day waiting for people to stop by.
Later that day, my friends and I were heading to the catacombs and Pompeii's Pillar. The guide book map was, in effect TERRIBLE for all of Alexandria. Luckily, the men emptying trucks, sitting in cafe's and selling from their carts all immediately recognized we were tourists and lost and, as we walked through the streets, would call out "Hello! Hello! This Way!" and directed us directly to where we wanted to go without us ever asking. Little children would run beside us "Hello! Hello! What is your name?" practicing their English, and even the carriage driver (we took a horse drawn carriage instead of a taxi after dinner last night) refused our generous tip saying "No! you only need to pay me 10! We didn't go very far!" (we had no smaller change and were only too happy to part with a 50 LE note (9 USD) for what he had told us would be a 30 LE trip.)
The pillar was pretty cool, but the catacombs gave me the shivers. Even though burials there took place nearly 2000 years ago, death still felt close by and I couldn't stay very long inside. The catacombs were also fascinating - especially in the melding of Greek and Egyptian art on the walls. Hathor and Anubis next to Dionysus and Medusa - the artwork was amazing. Other amazing artwork included mosaic murals that could be found all over the city reflecting the long, bright rays of sun throughout the day.
Of course, one of the best parts of the trip, for me, was the 3 hour train ride. I LOVE a train and will ride them whenever I can - this train, with it's opulently decorated stations, tea service, and the beautiful scenery on the ride, did not disappoint!
Alexandria, too, did not disappoint. It exceeded all expectations and I cannot wait for another weekend by the sea!
1 comment:
Hey Heather! Once again, we are delighted to read of your exploits and be regaled with your tales of Egyptian adventure. I must agree with your perspective and attitude with regard to train rides. While I was teaching in China, I rode the train from the University in Chengde into Beijing whenever the opportunity presented itself. The scenery is more often than not, spectacular. Additionally, the passengers provide a timeless mosaic of divergent cultures and ethnicities that is well worth the price of passage.
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